HOW TO MAKE A PENCIL SKIRT PATTERN
In future segments I will be working on different skirt variations and the only way you’ll be able to make the skirt manipulation is to draft the Straight skirt sloper. To draft the skirt sloper, pls click HERE.
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In order to understand the pencil skirt pattern instructions below: please follow along with the Youtube video below.
1. Copy the front and back sloper onto a new sheet of pattern paper.
2. Come down 2” from the top edge of the waistline curve and place several marks. Remember to follow the curve on the waistline.
3. Use a curved ruler to smooth out the new waist line.
4. The top portion with the marks will be discarded/cut away.
5. From the new waist line go down another 2″ and place several marks-make sure to follow the waistline curve. Smooth out the line with a hip curve ruler
****For those who prefer to keep the pencil skirt as a high-waisted skirt do not throw away the top portion with the dashes. You will use that as your yoke and will not need to follow the subsequent step for the lowered waistline***
6. For the skirt back-place two notches 4″ apart as a matching guide. Place only one notch 4″ apart for the skirt front.
7. The waistline for this skirt will be lowered, so the top portion is cut away.
8. Make sure to include the notches, grainline and label the yoke.
9. Close up the dart excess towards the side seam and tape.
REPEAT THE INSTRUCTION ABOVE TO THE SKIRT FRONT
*** If your planning on keeping the skirt high-waisted then expect the dart area to buckle a bit. Don’t worry about this because the yoke will be retraced onto pattern paper to correct that***
10. Take the CF and CB pieces at the SS-remember no seam allowance at the seam allowance and tape.
****Just in case your wondering why the CF has excess around the outer edges and it’s because I got a head of myself and added the 5/8” seam allowance. You’ll only add the seam allowance once the yoke is finished****
11. Take the new yoke pieces, tape and trace it out onto pattern paper or gift wrapping paper. Use your hip curve ruler to smooth out curves.
12. Once the yoke is completed add 5/8 “ seam allowance at the CB, top and bottom edge of the yoke. No seam allowance at the CF because it will be cut on the fold. Make sure to label and include the grain lines and notches.
The pencil skirt is slim at the hem, so I’ll slightly take in the hip and hem area.
13. From the side seam hem go in 1 1/2” and place a notch. At the hip line go in about 1/4” and place a notch, extend a 2” line.
14.Use a straight ruler and extend a line out as shown. Now use you hip curve ruler to smooth out the curve and remove the point You’ll blend to zero at the waist line- (which means you will not take anything off the waistline. It’s a gradual reduction from the hip to the waistline.
REPEAT TO THE SKIRT FRONT.
Last but not least well need to be able to walk in our sexy new pencil skirt and the only way to do that is to add a opening or vent to the center back. 🙂
15. First Add 5/8” seam allowance to the CB
16. From the hem go up 6″ and place a notch 17. Create a 1” wide rectangle at the 6” point…the rectangle sits right alongside the seam allowance.
18. Come down 1/2” and place several dashes/hyphens
19. Draw a diagonal line from the 6” notch to the facing
20. Come down 1/2” and place a circle directly below the 6” notch. This will represent your stitch line. place several diagonal hyphens to represent the stitch. (pls place the stitch lines following this green arrow on the screen, which is a steeper diagonal than mine. I made the adjustments on my pattern after the recording).
21. Label, cut away and this is how you fold.
If your not familiar with how to sew this skirt up I will doing that in another segment. If the link is not present on the screen the skirt is still a work in progress, so please subscribe for an update. Otherwise click on the link and a new window will open. The segment will show you step by step how to sew a skirt from start to finish.